Location
Calgary Bay
Isle of Mull, Scotland's wild west coast.
The bay
Calgary Bay is one of the most beautiful beaches in Scotland — a wide sweep of white shell sand and turquoise water backed by machair grassland and ancient woodland. Despite its beauty, it is rarely crowded.
The bay faces west, catching long summer sunsets. It is sheltered enough for swimming on calm days, and wild enough to feel the full force of Atlantic weather when storms roll in.
The name has nothing to do with Calgary in Canada — it is the other way around. The Canadian city was named after this bay by Colonel James Macleod, who visited Mull in the 1870s.
Calgary Art in Nature
Kittiwake sits within the Calgary Art in Nature sculpture walk — a woodland trail with 24 sculptures created by local and visiting artists, spread across three levels through the trees above the bay. Look out for the willow stag, the tree house with its scenic windows, and the oyster catcher sculptures on the hillside.
The trail was created over 30 years by Matthew and Julia Reade of Calgary Farmhouse, and is now looked after by their son Charlie and his partner Chloe — who also run Kittiwake. A £2 donation is suggested; you'll receive a map to guide your walk. The artworks change over time, so there's always something new to discover.
At the start of the trail, the Calgary Farmhouse Cafe serves locally sourced food with vegetarian and vegan options, and has toilets, a gallery, and gifts. It's also where you'll find the nearest Wi-Fi. Down in the car park, Charlie and Chloe also run Robin's Boat — an ice cream kiosk by the beach.
Things to do
Wildlife watching
White-tailed sea eagles nest nearby. Otters fish in the bay. Seals haul out on the rocks. Puffins breed on nearby Lunga and the Treshnish Isles.
Walking
Walk the beach at low tide. Follow the coastal path to Caliach Point for dramatic cliffs. Hike Ben More (966m), Mull's only Munro, for panoramic island views.
Boat trips
Take a wildlife boat trip to Staffa to see Fingal's Cave and the puffin colonies on the Treshnish Isles. Trips depart from nearby Ulva Ferry.
Tobermory
Mull's colourful capital is about 12 miles away. Harbour-front restaurants, independent shops, the Tobermory Distillery, and the Mull Museum.
Iona
The sacred island of Iona is reached by ferry from Fionnphort (about an hour south). Visit the medieval abbey, walk to the Bay at the Back of the Ocean.
Dervaig
The nearest village, 5 miles away. Pick up supplies or have a meal at the Bellachroy — Mull's oldest inn, established in 1608 as a waypoint for cattle drovers.
Getting here
By ferry
CalMac ferries run from Oban to Craignure (45 minutes). Book in advance during summer — the ferry is popular. From Craignure, Calgary is approximately 33 miles (about 1 hour) by single-track road via Salen and Dervaig. You can also reach Mull via Lochaline to Fishnish or Kilchoan to Tobermory.
By car
A car is essential. Mull's roads are mostly single track with passing places. Drive carefully, enjoy the scenery, and allow plenty of time. From Tobermory, Calgary is about 12 miles.
By train
ScotRail trains run to Oban from Glasgow (3 hours, stunning scenery through the West Highlands). From Oban, take the CalMac ferry.
Supplies
Kittiwake is off-grid with no shops nearby. Stock up in Oban or Tobermory. The nearest shop is in Dervaig, 5 miles away. Bring all food, drink, and essentials — you won't want to leave once you arrive.
At the hut
Park at the Calgary Art in Nature car park (free). It's then a 5-minute walk plus a 200m woodland path to the hut. A wheelbarrow is provided for transporting luggage and water.